Rome, the Long Way Round, Part II
Part II The several days we spent at Ulivello vibrate in the memory like an hallucination. Our friend Navrozov has written a beautiful piece about his visit to Ulivello. The reality was a bit grittier and decayed than he described it—less the odor of jasmine than of hay and manure—but no less magical. The food was almost a revelation: pasta, of course, but followed by farm-raised pork, roasted with apples and served with potatoes deep-fried in olive oil. Ulivello had been a sort of farm, worked by share-croppers, and when the Italian government ended share-cropping, the former croppers stayed on...