The Tower of Skulls On the House
The day before the Easter we celebrate in the West, my thoughts go out to Christians in the East who once endured the horror of Islamic rule. I wrote this piece in September 2001, and it was published n December. “You’ve never been to Nish?!” My friend was incredulous. How can someone who has traveled, it sometimes seems, every inch of Montenegro, Bosnia, and Kosovo, not have found the time to go to Nish? The lady is far from being a local chauvinist, but when I first met her and asked (as I had been taught by a Belgrader) if...



